Please click on the below link to read this article in Hindi:
कपड़े में रीड मार्क्स , कपड़े में डेंट मार्क्स , बुनाई दोष , कपड़ा दोष , कारण और उपचार
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TYPES OF YARN, CLASSIFICATION OF YARN
REED MARKS IN THE FABRIC, DENT MARKS IN THE FABRIC:
“Any uneven gap appearing
between two adjacent warp ends is termed as reed mark in the fabric”.
We should know first, what
is the role of a reed in the loom in fabric weaving? There are two functions of
reed in a loom. A reed in the loom performs beating – up motion. It also helps
to maintain an equal gap between two adjacent warp ends.
If the dent of the reed gets
damaged due to any reason, then an uneven gap between two adjacent dents at a particular
place creates. This uneven gap results in the form of reed mark in the fabric. An uneven gap may also create when weaver uses two pieces of reed for one fabric. Uneven
gap generates at the place of a joint between two pieces of reeds. Sometimes the
dents become loose and change their position during beating motion. This kind
of problem also creates reed marks in the fabric
Weaver should always take
care of getting reed damaged during broken end repairing. A flexible heald hook
of a fine stripe of steel should be used to draw a broken end end through the eye of heald wire and the dent of the reed. Sometimes weaver tries to draw broken end through
heald eye and dent of the reed together in the same attempt. This is a wrong
practice. First of all, weaver should pass the broken end through the heald eye,
then he should pass the broken end through the dent of the reed. In case of
fine to very fine reed count, the use of heald hook to draw a broken end should
be avoided if possible. Weaver should be trained to draw broken without heald
hook. At least use of heald hook should be avoided to draw the broken end
through the dent of the reed. The weaver should pass the broken end with the
help of the adjacent end. This practice keeps the reed safe.
There are two kinds of reed
marks:
Open reed mark: a particular
place in the fabric where the two adjacent ends have more gap as compared to
regular gap. This kind of reed mark is called an open reed mark. If the prominence
of this kind of reed mark is very loom, then this reed mark gets removed after
fabric dyeing. If prominence of reed mark is clearly visible, then it should be
mend by using a metallic comb.
Dense reed mark: a particular
place in the fabric where the two adjacent ends have less gap as compared to a regular gap. This kind of reed mark is called dense reed mark.
Special care should be taken of dense reed
mark because prominence of this kind of reed mark is increased after dyeing of
the fabric. A vertical dark line appears after dyeing. A weaver should always
avoid this kind of defect.
A dense reed mark becomes a
much serious defect when this fabric is printed with full blotch design.
Improper reed count selection
and denting order also result in the form of dent marks in whole fabric. The fabric
appearance is affected badly. Weaver generally uses coarse reed count with many numbers of ends per dent to minimize warp breakage rate. This practice results
in the form of dent marks in the fabric. Weaver should not use this kind of
practice.
Please click on the below video link to watch the full topic discussion:
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