Showing posts with label GSM. Show all posts
Showing posts with label GSM. Show all posts
Thursday, October 28, 2021
Thursday, August 26, 2021
एक सिस्टम से दूसरे सिस्टम में यार्न काउंट का रूपांतरण( yarn count conversion factors)
PLEASE CLICK ON THE BELOW LINK TO READ THIS FULL ARTICLE IN ENGLISH:
YARN COUNT CONVERSION FROM ONE TO ANOTHER SYSTEM, YARN COUNT CONVERSION TABLE, TABLE OF YARN COUNT CALCULATION FORMULA
एक सिस्टम से दूसरे सिस्टम में यार्न काउंट का रूपांतरण:
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट (NE) और डेनियर के बीच संबंध:
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट और डेनियर के बीच संबंध निम्नानुसार प्राप्त किया जा सकता है:
मान लीजिए यार्न की न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट C है और डेनियर D है।
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट की परिभाषा के अनुसार
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट (Ne) और टेक्स के बीच संबंध:
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट और टेक्स के बीच संबंध निम्नानुसार प्राप्त किया जा सकता है:
मान लीजिए कि सूत का Ne = C, और tex = T
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट की परिभाषा के अनुसार
टेक्स और डेनियर के बीच संबंध:
टेक्स और डेनियर के बीच संबंध निम्नानुसार प्राप्त किया जा सकता है:
मान लीजिए कि सूत का टेक्स T है, और डेनियर D है
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट (Ne) और नई मीट्रिक गणना (Nm) के बीच संबंध:
Ne और Nm के बीच संबंध निम्नानुसार प्राप्त किया जा सकता है:
मान लीजिए न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट = Ne, और न्यू मीट्रिक गणना = Nm
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट (Ne) और लिनेन काउंट (lea) के बीच संबंध:
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट Ne और लिनेन काउंट के बीच संबंध निम्नानुसार प्राप्त किया जा सकता है:
मान लीजिए कि यार्न की न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट Ne है और लिनन काउंट Lea है।
न्यू मेट्रिक काउंट (Nm) और लिनेन काउंट (lea) के बीच संबंध:
न्यू मेट्रिक काउंट (Nm) और लिनेन काउंट (lea) के बीच संबंध इस प्रकार निकाला जा सकता है:
मान लीजिए कि यार्न की न्यू मीट्रिक काउंट एनएम है और यार्न की लिनन गिनती ली है।
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट (Ne) और वर्स्टेड काउंट के बीच संबंध:
नई न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट और वर्स्टेड काउंट के बीच संबंध निम्नानुसार प्राप्त किया जा सकता है:
मान लीजिए कि न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट = Ne, और सूत की वर्स्टेड काउंट Cwst है।
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट और वूलन काउंट (ysw) के बीच सम्बन्ध:
मान लीजिए कि एक धागे की न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट Ne है और वूलन काउंट(YSW) WYSW है
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट की परिभाषा के अनुसार
1 पौंड सूत की लंबाई = Ne x 840 गज
वूलन काउंट(ysw) की परिभाषा के अनुसार, एक पौंड में 256 गज की हैंकों की संख्या को वूलन काउंट (ysw) कहा जाता है।
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट और वूलन काउंट(ड्यूसबरी) के बीच संबंध:
मान लीजिए कि यार्न की न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट Ne है और वूलन (ड्यूस्बरी) Wdew है।
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट की परिभाषा के अनुसार, 1 पौंड में 840 गज के हैंक्स की संख्या
1 पौंड सूत की लंबाई = Ne X 840 गज
या १६ औंस (औंस) की लंबाई = Ne X ८४० गज
वूलन काउंट के अनुसार (ड्यूस्बरी) काउंट
वूलन काउंट (ड्यूस्बरी) Wdew = लंबाई गज में 1 औंस . में धागा
वूलन काउंट (YSW) और वूलेन काउंट (DEWSBURY) के बीच संबंध:
मान लीजिए कि एक सूत की वूलन काउंट(ysw) है और वूलन काउंट Wdews है।
वूलन काउंट (ysw) की परिभाषा के अनुसार, 1 पौंड में 256 गज के हैंक्स की संख्या
इस प्रकार 1 पौंड सूत की लंबाई = WYSW x 256 गज
16 औंस (ऑउंस) की लंबाई = WYSW x 256 गज
चूंकि गज में 1 औंस (औंस) यार्न की लंबाई को वूलन काउंट (ड्यूस्बरी) कहा जाता है
न्यू इंग्लिश काउंट (Ne) और जूट काउंट (Lbs) के बीच संबंध:
लिनन काउंट (LEA) और न्यू मेट्रिक काउंट (Nm) के बीच संबंध:
यार्न काउंट रूपांतरण तालिका:
यार्न काउंट की सूत्र की तालिका:
Saturday, June 27, 2020
Thursday, June 25, 2020
Thursday, February 13, 2020
FABRIC ANALYSIS
Please click on the below link to read this full article in Hindi:
कपङे का विश्लेषण ( वोवन फैब्रिक एनालिसिस)
FABRIC ANALYSIS
"Fabric analysis is a process to know about all information required to start manufacturing of a fabric". A weaver is always required to analyze the fabric to be woven in a systematic manner. Weaver should determine all the fabric parameters precisely. "Any negligence during fabric analysis can cause heavy to a very heavy loss to the weaver". The proper and precise analysis of fabric should be conducted before starting the fabric production. The correct procedure of fabric analysis is given below:
Step 1 – identification of warp and weft directions:
The warp and weft directions of the fabric are the most important factors for any weaver. The warp and weft direction in the fabric is identified carefully. The direction of warp and weft is identified as follows:
Dent mark in the fabric:
This is the best way to identify the warp and weft direction in the woven fabric. The fabric is observed under a light source. The dent mark in the grey fabric can be observed clearly through naked eyes. "The dent mark is the air space which gets created due to dent wire of the reed in the fabric". This airspace appears in the fabric at regular intervals of distance ( according to denting order used in the fabric). These dent marks run in the warp direction in the fabric.
Thus the weaver decides the warp direction in the fabric to be woven. The other fabric direction is the weft direction.
Thus the weaver decides the warp direction in the fabric to be woven. The other fabric direction is the weft direction.
If a weaver receives a dyed fabric swatch, then some difficulties come during the identification of warp and weft direction. Difficulties increase more if the fabric has higher warp and weft density in the fabric. In this situation, the dent marks do not appear clearly and continuously. Now the fabric is observed carefully with the help of a magnifying glass. Uneven airspace along the warp direction due to dent wire of the reed can be identified clearly and warp and weft direction can be decided in the fabric.
In some fabrics, one end per dent is passed through the reed. In this type of fabric almost even air gap between two ends results and hence the dent mark does not appear clearly in the fabric. In this kind of situation, the technician needs extra care to see uneven airspace between two adjacent ends. "As soon as fabric comes out of take-up roller, its width tends to shrink. The ends come closer to each other but an uneven end to end airspace generates during shrinkage".
Please note that picks look more straight than an end in the fabric.
Following are the few helping factors in making the decision of the direction of warp and weft of the given fabric swatch:
Ends per inch and picks per inch:
Ends per inch and picks per inch always do not help to identify the warp and weft direction but in maximum fabrics, the ends per inch are kept higher than picks per inch. There are two reasons which insist a weaver to keep EPI higher than PPI. The first reason is the cost of production. Higher PPI causes a direct increase in the weaving cost of the fabric. The second reason is the widthwise shrinkage of the fabric during weaving. In plain fabrics, the ratio of warp and weft in the plain fabric is kept at 55:45. This warp and weft ratio gives the best results in terms of efficiency, productivity, and quality. As the warp and weft ratio starts to become equal, the widthwise fabric shrinkage during weaving increases. This increased shrinkage causes an increased warp breakage rate on both the selvedge sides. The fabric also starts to tear at both the selvedge during weaving. In this way, the weaver can decide the warp and weft direction.
Warp and weft crimp:
The warp crimp and weft crimp also help to decide the warp and weft direction in the fabric swatch. "In any grey fabric, the warp crimp is always more than weft crimp". The weaver can make his decision with the help of warp and weft.
Type of yarn used in the fabric:
In some fabrics, single ply and double plies yarn are used together. One type of yarn is used in warp and another type of yarn is used weft. In this kind of fabric, the weaver always prefers double plies yarn in the warp because the sizing cost does not involve double plies warp yarn.
Step 2 determination of ends per inch and picks per inch:
These parameters can be determined easily with the help of counting glass in most of the fabric. "The counting should be carried out under sufficient light source. The opposite colour background should always be there under the fabric swatch". This opposite colour background under the swatch helps to increase the contrast between airspace and yarn.
A technician becomes able to see and count the EPI and PPI easily. The technician should always count the ends or picks in the complete one inch. Some technicians use half an inch or quarter inch to count ends or picks. This practice does not give an accurate result.
A technician becomes able to see and count the EPI and PPI easily. The technician should always count the ends or picks in the complete one inch. Some technicians use half an inch or quarter inch to count ends or picks. This practice does not give an accurate result.
"In some fabrics like twill and satin having a higher number of threads per square inch, the counting of ends or picks becomes much difficult for the technician. In these kinds of fabrics, the ends per inch and picks per inch are determined accurately with the help of weave repeat".
In some fabrics, the ends or picks are overlapped to each other. In these types of fabric, the one-inch fabric is opened and ends or picks are counted.
Step 3 determination of GSM of the fabric:
The way to determine the GSM of the fabric is adopted as per the availability of the size of the fabric swatch. Sometimes fabric swatch is very small. Cutting of the required circle does not become possible. The GSM of the fabric is found by adopting another method. The methods of determination of GSM are given below:
By using GSM cutter:
if the fabric swatch has sufficient size, then a disc of fabric is cut with the help of a round cutter. This disc of the fabric is weighed on the weighing scale.
if the fabric swatch has sufficient size, then a disc of fabric is cut with the help of a round cutter. This disc of the fabric is weighed on the weighing scale.
GSM = Weight of fabric disc ( grams ) x 100
Now a question may arise why do we multiply the circle weight by 100. This is just because of the area of the fabric circle. We can obtain 100 fabric circles of the same size from one square meter of the fabric. Since we find the weight of one circle, therefore we multiply the circle weight by 100 to find the weight of one square meter of the fabric.
Without using GSM cutter:
if the fabric swatch does not have a suitable size for cutting the disc then the fabric swatch is cut in a rectangle shape. "The length and width of the fabric swatch are measured in centimetres". See below graphic.
Now GSM of the fabric is determined by using the following formula:
if the fabric swatch does not have a suitable size for cutting the disc then the fabric swatch is cut in a rectangle shape. "The length and width of the fabric swatch are measured in centimetres". See below graphic.
Now GSM of the fabric is determined by using the following formula:
To find the GSM without cutting the fabric:
many times your buyer does not allow you to cut the fabric. In this kind of situation, the length, width, and weight of the piece are measured accurately and the GSM of the fabric is calculated with the help of the following formula:
Step 4 determination of warp count and weft count:
The warp and weft count of the fabric should be determined precisely. The warp or weft yarn is taken out from the fabric. The length of the yarn is measured in meters and its weight is measured in grams. Now technician can calculate the count of warp or weft yarn by using the following formula:
Step 5 determination of the degree of twist in the warp and weft yarn and twist direction:
The degree of the twist is a very important parameter of the yarn because the yarn twist directly affects many fabric properties. The yarn twist should be analyzed properly to achieve the same fabric properties as per the sample. TPI and direction of twist both should be checked by a weaver before purchasing the yarn. If a weaver does not have an in-house testing facility, he should arrange the same from outside the laboratory.
Step 6 determination of warp and weft crimp:
Warp crimp:
Warp crimp (regain) is the ratio of the difference between warp length and fabric length to fabric length in the term of % is called warp regain.
Warp crimp (regain) is the ratio of the difference between warp length and fabric length to fabric length in the term of % is called warp regain.
Weft crimp:
It is the ratio of difference (between straightened pick length and fabric width) to fabric width expressed in the term of percentage is called weft crimp. This term may also know as weft regain.
The weft crimp can be obtained by using the below formula:
Step 7 Warp and weft pattern:
If there is multicolour yarn in the warp or weft, then the weaver needs to analyze the warp and weft pattern correctly. Since warp pattern is set in warping, therefore warp pattern analyses require extra care during analyses. A little mistake in warp pattern may be a cause of heavy loss to a weaver. The pattern mistake in the warp cannot be recovered by a weaver in any way. Complete fabric will get rejected.
Weaver should always keep in mind that warp pattern mistake is unrepairable damage in weaving.
Step 8 weave of the fabric:
The weave of the fabric is a very important parameter of fabric. The weave, draft and peg plan of the fabric should be analysed properly and correctly. The draft decides the number of heald shafts to be used in the loom to weave a particular fabric. The peg plan defines the lifting order of heald shafts.
Please note that any mistake during draft analyses requires re-drawing of the warp. It causes productivity loss to the weaver.
Step 9 fabric selvedge:
Sometimes the type of selvedge becomes a very important fabric parameter because it influences the cost of the product up to some extent.
Sometimes the type of selvedge becomes a very important fabric parameter because it influences the cost of the product up to some extent.
Step 10 contents and blend percentage:
A weaver should always conduct a test of the contents of warp and weft yarn. If the yarn is blended with two fibres, the blend % should also be tested.
Please watch the below the video in Hindi about fabric analysis:
You may also be interested in the following articles:
Reed count selection in weaving
Fabric parameters or specifications
Cloth or fabric cover factor calculation
Cotton fibre length evaluation
Fabric GSM calculation
Reed count selection in weaving
Fabric parameters or specifications
Cloth or fabric cover factor calculation
Cotton fibre length evaluation
Fabric GSM calculation
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Friday, October 19, 2018
Yarn count conversion from one to another system, yarn count conversion table, table of yarn count calculation formula
please click on the below link to read this article in Hindi
CONVERSION OF YARN COUNT FROM ONE SYSTEM TO ANOTHER SYSTEM:
The relation between New English count ( Ne) and denier:
The relation between new English count and denier can be derived as follows:
Suppose the new English count of yarn is C and denier is D.
As per the definition of new English count
The relation between new English count (Ne) and Tex:
The relation between new English count and tex can be derived as follows:
Suppose that Ne of yarn = C, and tex = T
As per the definition of new English count
The relation between Tex and Denier:
The relation between tex and denier can be derived as follows:
Suppose that the tex of yarn is T, and denier is D
The relation between new English count (Ne) and the new metric count (Nm):
The relation between Ne and Nm can be derived as follows:
Suppose new English count = Ne, and new metric count = Nm
The relation between new English count (Ne) and linen count(lea):
The relation between new English count Ne and linen count can be derived as follows:
Suppose that the new English count of yarn is Ne and linen count is a lea.
The relation between new metric count (Nm) and linen count(lea):
The relation between new metric count (Nm) and linen count(lea) can be derived as follows:
Suppose that the new metric count of yarn is Nm and the linen count of yarn is Lea.
The relation between new English count (Ne) and worsted count:
The relation between new English count and worsted count can be derived as follows:
Suppose that the new English count = Ne, and the worsted count of yarn is Cwst.
RELATION BETWEEN NEW ENGLISH COUNT AND WOOLEN COUNT(ysw)
Suppose that the new English count of yarn is Ne and woollen count ( YSW) is WYSW
According to the definition of new English count
The length of 1 pound of yarn = Ne x 840 yards
As per the definition of woollen count ( ysw), the number of hanks of 256 yards in a pound is called woollen count(ysw)
RELATION BETWEEN NEW ENGLISH COUNT AND WOLLEN COUNT (DEWSBURY)
Suppose that the new English count of yarn is Ne and woollen count( Dewsbury) is Wdew .
According to the definition of new English count, the number of hanks of 840 yards in 1 pound
Length of 1 pound of yarn = Ne X 840 yards
Or length of 16 ounces ( ozs ) = Ne X 840 yards
According to woollen count ( Dewsbury) count
Woollen count (Dewsbury) Wdew = length in yards in 1 ounce of
Yarn
RELATION BETWEEN WOOLEN COUNT ( YSW ) AND WOOLEN COUNT ( DEWSBURY)
Suppose that the woollen count ( ysw) of yarn is WYSW and woollen count (Dewsbury) is Wdews.
According to the definition of woollen count (ysw), the number of hanks of 256 yards in 1 pound
Thus the length of 1 pound of yarn = WYSW x 256 yards
Length of 16 ounces (ozs) = WYSW x 256 yards
Since Length of 1 ounce ( oz) of yarn in yards is called woollen count (Dewsbury)
Relation between New English count( Ne) and jute count ( lbs.) :
RELATION BETWEEN LINEN COUNT( LEA) AND NEW METRIC COUNT ( Nm)
YARN COUNT CONVERSION TABLE:
TABLE OF YARN COUNT CALCULATION FORMULA
PLEASE WATCH THIS VIDEO IN HINDI ABOUT YARN COUNT CONVERSION FACTORS
Related articles:
Related articles:
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Rapier weft insertion system l Types of rapier looms l Weft yarn passage and working principle of rapier weft insertion system
An introduction about shuttleless weaving ( a non conventional weft insertion system)
Parallel picking or parallel weft insertion systems
Structure and working principle of water-jet loom weft insertion system
Structure and working principle of projectile loom weft insertion system
Types of rapier weft transfer process, Negative weft transfer and positive weft transfer
Rapier weft insertion system l Types of rapier looms l Weft yarn passage and working principle of rapier weft insertion system
An introduction about shuttleless weaving ( a non conventional weft insertion system)
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Structure and working principle of projectile loom weft insertion system
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